Swimming with the World's Largest Fish: The Whale Shark

Home of Willy's Whale Shark Tours

Year-round, whale shark memorabilia and insignia are found everywhere on the Island of Holbox; however, for just three months, from mid June to mid September, these peaceful sharks can be found swimming in the waters near the island.  These sharks can grow up to 40 feet long and weigh over 20 tons.

Will and Danny (UTEP 8 and UTEP 9) ready for the tour

Around 7am, we prepared for our Whale Shark tour led by Captain Chino of Willy's Whale Shark Tours.  Chino has been leading tours since they began on the island, about 10 years ago; however, his grandfather told him stories of the whale shark before he ever saw one.

An article from Discovery News (May 2011) counts 420 Whale Sharks off the coast of the Yucatan and a smaller pack along the northern tip of the peninsula.  Today, our guide tells us that they tracked some 900 Tiburones Ballenas from the past season to see where they went after Mexico.  Their final destination was not clearly defined:  they found that the sharks scattered to various places in the S. Atlantic and as far away as Australia.  Whale Sharks come to the warm waters off of the Yucatan to feed on plankton, tiny fish, and fish eggs.  They swim along the surface of the water where their large open jaws act as a filter for anything they encounter.

Ready for the Sharks?

I hadn't really read a lot about this vulnerable species before signing up for the tour with Will and Danny.  On the boat, we were joined by a couple from Mexico City, a couple from Campeche, and Sana, a film student from Finland.  After about two hours of boating to arrive to the blue waters (with only a short stop to view dolphins), our boat slowed as we entered the whale shark territory.  Dozens of sharks were spread out in the ocean along with dozens of boats filled with shark enthusiasts.  Our guide explained the routine:  we'd put our fins, masks, life vests, and snorkel gear on.  Seated on the edge of the boat, we would wait while the boat approached a shark in the water.  When the guide said, "Vamos!" we jump into the water and begin to swim quickly towards the shark's mouth, using only our fins as to not disturb the shark with our arms.  Then, as the shark turned, we should turn with the shark and swim along its side, being careful not to touch it.  After a shark swim, we'd return to the boat and rest while the next group found another shark to swim with.  Sounds easy, right?

Flat head of the Whale Shark

                        Whale shark approaching:  Prepare to jump!

The first swim was a learning experience.  By the time I remembered I had snorkel gear on and looked under water, I saw the shark's tail swimming away from me.  I gasped seeing the huge beast, perhaps slightly afraid for the first time on this journey.  I came above water to see Will and Danny far behind me.  The guide was yelling back at us to swim faster.

Team UTEP after an unsuccessful swim

"I can wait for you guys, but the shark doesn't wait for you," he told us.  We'd need to do better if we wanted to swim with the sharks, not chase them from a distance.

Returning to the boat

Lovely Spots of a Whale Shark

For the next hour and half, we perfected our technique for swimming with the whale sharks.   There is something slightly unsettling about staring into the gaping mouth of a whale shark as it swims directly at you.  You try to quickly turn your body to the side, hoping you'll move quicker than the shark.  I'll admit that at one point I pushed Danny ahead of me.  I looked back to see him floating over the top of the shark, which dove slightly below and continued past him.  Swimming alongside the shark was particularly mesmerizing, watching their huge gills rhythmically swaying back and forth.  Various species of fish like remoras, hitch a ride on the shark, clinging to its fins, tail, and sides.  Sometimes, you're hanging in the water looking into the shark's huge beady eye, wondering what he thinks of you.  It's peaceful.  You forget about everything while you're underwater swimming alongside or on top of one of these spotted beasts.  You surface and realize you're a block away from the boat and the rest of the divers.  At one point, I looked down and saw silver kites gliding deep below, manta rays.

Girl meets Shark


Check out Danny's amazing underwater encounter:

After our swim, our group was quiet, experiencing a combination of exhaustion and amazement, I suppose.  We took off our gear and swam alongside the boat in the deep blue waters, glancing back every so often, hoping some more whale sharks would join us.  Then, we grabbed a sandwich and began the long boat ride back to the island.  As the water changes from the Caribbean to the Gulf, the colors vary  greatly - deep blue, crystal clear, and then greenish blue.  We stopped near the coast of Isla Contoy to swim in the clear shallow waters, after seeing many rays and a couple of sea turtles.  I took a short nap and awoke to see the flamingos off the coast of Holbox.  A perfect sight to finish an incredible day with nature.  Many would describe such an experience as once-in-a-lifetime;  Team UTEP-BIO disagrees.  Swimming with the Whale Shark is so amazing that we're already planning our next trip!

After a great day with the Tiburon Ballena!

Flamingos on Isla Holbox

Adios Danny.. See you in Chicago!

Holbox Explorations: Blat Ha Organic Garden, Luum Ayni, and Nature Hike

Funky Plant Mural on the Beach

Welcome to the Yum Balam Reserve

After two busy weeks, a day off!

Checking out the garden from the roof of Blat Ha

After a short break from our nature and gardening adventures, Danny and I began our morning at Casa Blat Ha.  Blat Ha is an Eco-Bed and Breakfast and organic orchard, which is home to a wide array of medicinal and edible plants.  For the next eight days, we'll be spending some time at Blat Ha and learning from the owner Daniel Trigo, who has an extensive knowledge of plants, horticulture, and history.  He's offered to share his expertise as well as his impressive collection of books with us.

Our first morning at Blat Ha, we meet Cesar and Lisa, who run a sustainable ecology project called Luum Ayni, in Chichimila, Yucatan near Valladolid.  I'll travel back to the area next week to visit this project because I don't think I should miss it!  Cesar adds to my knowledge of local bees: telling me about three species - zacxic, kanzac, and muul.  The muul, Trigona fuluventris, pollinates tiny flowers in the jungle.  While the yield of honey produced by the muul is less than than traditional Mellipona, it is considered an elixir known for its anti-bacterial properties, taken orally as a medicine and put on scars and cuts.  Bees are so important to this region:  the states of Yucatan, Campeche, and Quintana Roo produce over 20,000 tons of honey each year; 15,000 tons of this honey is exported to Europe and the rest of N. America.

Flowering Basil

Busy Bees on the Basil

After reading a bit about native species and Maya agriculture, Danny and I head out to the garden with Daniel to dead head a large patch of basil and harvest a bit, which we package in homemade leaf bags.

Harvesting the Basil

Lovely bags of basil

It has been great walking around the island with Danny, as he is fearless with his camera.  I joke with him that I may need to call his mom with news of an osprey or iguana attack.  In the meantime, I enjoy his quality photos, as I'm sure you will too!  

Hanging out by the sea

Pelican Encounters

Lovely Sea Hawk (Osprey)

Posing for Danny's Photos?

Stay tuned for our day of swimming with the whale sharks, including Danny's underwater videos, and many more adventures.