All-inclusive eco-park includes jungle walk: Xel-ha

Entrance to the port of Xel-ha

It is impossible to visit the Riviera Maya without seeing advertisements for the Xcaret Xperience Parks. We decided to check out Xel-ha, which is considered the world's largest aquarium and offers and assortment of outdoor activities, in the forest as well as in the water.  The first thing we did upon entering Xel-ha was to book a guided jungle walk. We spent the morning snorkeling in the lagoon, enjoying the wide variety tropical reef fish, and then met our group for the tour.  Our guide explained that Xel-ha, a geological marvel on the Yucatan's Caribbean coast that includes a large, brackish inlet, was once a trading port of the ancient Maya. The name is Mayan for "birthplace of the water", which makes sense in light of its role as the marine exit point for a large drainage basin (all of the fresh water arrives in underground rivers).   Xel-ha has been a park and "natural aquarium" for the past 18 years- now one of the major attractions of the Riviera Maya. A goal of the organization running the park is to conserve the natural beauty in Xel-ha, through sustainable practices such as recycling, composting, reforestation, and environmental education.

A view of the world's largest natural aquarium

Along the edge of the cenote

As we walk towards the water, we pass a plant nursery, where plants for the park are cultivated.  Many plants along the trails are labeled with signs that let us know the name and origin of the plant as well as its uses.  After our introduction to the area and a brief explanation of the differences between Manta rays and the kind of rays found at Xel-ha, we cross a bridge as our guide points to the algae-heavy water underneath. "You might thing this looks like dirty water, not pleasant to swim in, but in fact the algae and other microorganisms help clean the water. Notice how many little fish are swimming here- it is a healthy environment".  Incidentally, I recently read some papers that argue that there is evidence that one of the reasons the ancient Maya were so successful agriculturally in the difficult environment of the Yucatan is that they harvest algae from the sea to use as fertilizer for their crops. While this hasn't been proven beyond doubt,  it is certainly an interesting theory.

Several ducks and heron on the edge of the cenote

Next, we cross a floating bridge (not an easy task as the sea is rough today) and begin our journey through the Path of Consciousness, a trail marked by a series of large stones etched with quotes on the environment from notable thinkers. Each stone is numbered using the Maya system, which uses dots, lines, and other shapes to represent the natural numbers. Soon we are looking down openings in the limestone ground that lead to a sea cove below. Our guide explains that these were sacred places for the Maya, and that astronomical observations could be made by observing the sky's reflection in the water below.

Our guide describes gum production

Continuing on the Path of Consciousness, we encounter several small pathways in the limestone where the sea water flows- apparently great for snorkeling. The roots of a large chechen tree are embedded in some of the limestone. Our guide asks us why it might be that a tree would have roots attached to stone, where it would seem there would be few available nutrients. Stumped, she explains that the limestone is saturated with water, which the tree can then absorb. This particular tree traces an interesting route horizontally to the limestone wall and then, after about ten feet, vertically, where its leaves grow.  Our group marvels at nature's creativity.

Chechen tree whose roots absorb water from the rock

Soon we are looking into a small, open cave away from the sea inlet. Our guide explains that the water here is freshwater. She then explains that all the limestone in the Yucatan is the result of deposition from an ancient sea that covered the peninsula many millions of years ago. In the roof of this small cave, there are dozens of fossilized imprints of ancient plants and corals, evidence of the fact that the peninsula was once underwater.

Fossils in the roof of a cave in the park

Chit Palm fronds= Water Resistant

On the jungle trail, we stop to identify plants along the way, including the endangered Chit palm which was used to produce roofs, the Sapote tree used to make gum, and of course, the famous Chaca and Chechen, which are abundant in the park, and surprisingly close to the walking trails.

Finally, we arrive at a large, sacred cenote, the roof of which, our guide explained, has collapsed. The area is beautiful, with a variety of bird species, multicolored fish swimming in the clear freshwater, and of course the surrounding jungle. Our guide has us close our eyes and first take in the sounds and smells of the natural environment, and then to imagine it destroyed by the development of highways, factories, and shopping centers. She finally has us open our eyes and discuss our thoughts about the experience.

A visit from a family of Coati

The tour ends at the entrance to the river.  We decide to take bikes down the path to the center of the park.  On our way, we spot a coati crossing our path.  Soon, we realize we are surrounded by a family of these mischievous creatures, including several babies.  As they leap through the trees, they sound and look a bit like the spider monkeys that we saw at Punta Laguna.

Pathway in the Garden of the Chacas

One the bike path, we stop to visit the Garden of the Chacas.  In this place, numerous movie stars, authors, artists, and sports figures from Mexico have come to plant a tree and leave a quote about what the environment means to them.  We're the only ones in this special garden, which is a peaceful and inspiring place.  One of my favorite quotes was from actor and director Silvestre Lopez Portillo: "This tree is a small demonstration of how marvelous it is to live, and to leave something beating in this world."  A beautiful way to think about planting a tree, or a garden for that matter.